"I hope readers will enjoy the stories of these waves, told by the people who rode them, and who mostly discovered them, who got out there before wetsuits and leashes or later wearing the beaver tail suits and a pair of their marigolds. The guys who made their own boards using cut out patterns from magazines, studied the charts before the surf forecasting websites arrived and drove for hours to find the spot. This is a tribute to them, many who became friends, some have sadly departed but also to the new surfers, the families and the friendship groups who feel connected to the water as well as each other. Keep riding."

Alex Williams.